This unassuming temple, located right in the middle of Paro Town in Tshongdue, rarely gets a visitor. The caretaker was surprised I had come in. And yet, this place played an important part in Bhutan’s history. It hosted Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyel when he first landed in present-day Bhutan in 1616.

While Zhabdrung was forced out of his ancestral estate in Ralung in present-day Tibet, Buddhist practitioners believe it was pre-destined. This is evidenced by the fact that for centuries preceeding him, his ancestors and lamas from the same school established seats of Drukpa Kagyu in Bhutan – thus preparing for his eventual arrival. The key figures among them were Lam Ngawang Chogyal, Kunga Penjor, Phajo Drugom and the divine madman, Drukpa Kinley. 

Druk Choeding was one such place, and it was established by Lam Ngawang Chogyel in 1525.

The centrepiece of the temple is Maitreya Buddha (the caretaker insisted it is Buddha Shakyamuni) and there is also a large image of Buddha Avalokitesvara. Smaller statues of Lam Ngawang Chogyel and Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyel can also be seen on the altar.

On the right of the main altar is a smaller corner dedicated to dharma protector Aap Gennyen Jakpa Melen. He is believed to have appeared in human form, at times, and served Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyel. His main abode is in Dechenphu in Thimphu. As Zhabdrung had just arrived in Bhutan it is possible that he followed him to Paro on the maiden visit.

Druk Choeding also plays a significant role in Bhutan’s history as the site of the first Tibetan invasion. In fact the Tibetan ruler Tsang Desi, who was responsible for Zhabdrung’s exit from there, sent an army to capture Zhabdrung. This temple was sieged but the local followers of Zhabdrung whisked him out to Drela Dzong before the Tibetans attacked.

The locals led by Zarchen Choejey and Hungrel Drung (the descendants are still alive today) raised a militia and managed to drive out the invading forces.

Today the place sits there, alone but intact. Right outside the gate people are scrambling for a parking slot, but everyone is heading towards the vegetable market.

Signs of changing time, I guess.