This hidden sacred paradise is my favourite of all the sacred places in Bhutan – even more than the super famous Taktshang.

The temple was established by Sacha Rinchen (1710-1759) – the ninth Je Khenpo, and perhaps the greatest of them all.

Chumphu was built as Tsari Nyipa (Second Tsari) – with reference to the famed Tsari (Crystal Mountains) in Tibet, which is believed to be the eternal abode of Dorje Phagmo. Story has it that Sacha Rinchen in his vision saw Dorje Phagmo telling him that in future the first Tsari would see a decline, and Chumphu Nye will be her main abode. 

The main inner relic is a 5-feet tall statue of Dorje Phagmo (Vajravarahi), which according to one legend is rangjung (self-arisen) and not man-made. The other legend is that it was discovered in a lake – located some 30 minutes up the temple.

Whichever be the true story, the marvellous thing about this statue is that it is levitating – meaning it is floating. 

I first visited this place in 2010 with a friend of mine called Sherub who grew up down in the valley. Sherub remembers playing with a bow string, by holding each end and making an arc, and throwing the string behind the statue, like a magician, and pulling both the ends from the gap below. This was done to prove that the statue was not anchored to the wall behind it.

Some 20 years back, a framed altar was built and the statue is sealed behind the glass, now, no one is allowed to do that. However, the levitating left foot can still be seen.

Chum(o)phu (meaning Female Water Mountain) can be reached from Paro Lhakhang Saarp after a gradual 4-hour climb and can be done as a pleasant day hike.

Dorje Phagmo (Skt: Vajravarahi; lit: Thunderbolt Sow) is the wrathful form of Vajrayogini, known as the foremost, supreme queen of all dakinis and a divine consort of Heruka Chakrasamvara (Khorlo Demchok). She is the Samantabhadri of wisdom, activities, and accomplishments, and therefore known throughout as the “Mother to all Buddhas”—the Ultimate Refuge for all deities, practitioners, and meditators of the Buddhadharma.

#vajravarahi #dorjephagmo #vajrayana #buddhism #paro #chumphunye #bhutan #temple