The Other Side of Taktshang


As you look up from the base of Taktshang you see two temples. The small temple on the right is called Taktshang Shama, which is built around Drolo Phu – dedicated to Guru Dorje Drolo. Shama

Taktshang- the iconic tiger’s nest is today equated to just one cave – Pelphu – around which 9 temples have been built. And yet, Taktshang is actually composed of nine principal caves and more minor places. Locals believe one must visit all to get the full blessings of Taktshang. Most of these caves are where successive masters like Milarepa, Phadampa Sangye, Thangtong Gyalpo, Machig Labdron, Phajo Drugom visited.

On the side that is popular, and where almost every visitors go, there are three caves: Pelphu (where Langchen Pelgyi Sengye meditated), Sengyephu (associated to Yeshey Tshogyel) and Machiphu (associated to Machig Labdron).

The other six caves on the right side are Drolophu, Phagmophu (where Guru met his adopted mother Dorje Phagmo), Chogyelphu, Kapaliphu, Thratshogpgu, and Yoserphu. To do the six remaining caves, you must veer off from trail at the Chukor Mani and take the right ridge.

You can also visit the Pelphu complex and then proceed up to Machiphu and then to Ugyen Tsemo and climb down. From this route, Thratshophu will be the first cave you will meet.

Taktshang Shama.

The place is believed to have been built by Kathog lama Sonam Gyaltshen sometime in 1508. This also explains the painting of the ChoLongTruel Sum of the pre-Zhabdrung era that is on the upper floor.

The lower floor has the more sacred Guru Dorje Drolo – in that it is believed that the statue is said to have spoken.

In 1998, when the Taktshang complex at Pelphu caught fire, the caretaker started packing the belongings and the statue to leave the place for a safer ground. Dorje Drolo told the caretaker not to move anything.

Whether or not the story is true, Taktshang Shama feels very different and provokes a deeper experience. Maybe it is because you avoid the crowd and can do some real prayers.

Cautionary note:
If you suffer from vertigo or cannot stand heights, PLEASE DON’T do this side. It is not safe.

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