On the peak of the iconic Tigers Nest – Taktshang in Paro stands the less-frequented temple of Ugyen Tsemo (ཨྱོན་རྩེ་མོ).

Ugyen Tsemo is probably one of the earliest temples established at Taktshang. It is attributed to Nyingma Lama, Uwo Yeshey Bumpa, from Kathog monastery in Kham Derge. He built a shrine there as early as 1408*.

Almost a century later his descendant Kathog Lama Sonam Gyeltsen (1466-1540) built the first temple at Pelphu and at Shama. He stayed in Ugyen Tsemo, having been invited and hosted by Nyamey Chum in Paro. The temples at Taktshang remained under the care of the descendants of Lama Sonam Gyaltsen.

During the series of Tibetan invasions, and especially the one in 1644, one of Zhabdrung’s teacher for Nyingma tradition, Kathog Rigzin Nyingpo, invoked all the Nyingma protector deities in support of Zhabdrung to repel the invaders.

As a gratitude, Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyel visited Ugyen Tsemo in 1645. During this visit the shrine at Pelphug was offered to him. Zhabdrung promised to build a large statue of Guru Padmasambhava, but he passed away a few years later. His promise was fulfilled by his heart son Tenzin Rabgye who build the legendary Pelphu (Taktshang) monastery in 1692.

Ugyen Tsemo, thus, played an important role in the history of Bhutan. However, what you see today at Ugyen Tsemo is not the original temple, because a massive fire burnt it down. There is no record of what was left and what was rebuilt. The oral sources only say that a major repair was done in 1958 by Queen Phuntsho Choden (See the black-and-white picture).

The temple.

The temple is in the shape of Zangtopelri with Buddha Amitabha on the top floor, Avalokiteshvara in the middle floor and Guru Padmasambhava on the ground floor, following the Choekor-Lungkor-Truelku tradition.

The thousand-arm Avalokiteshvara on the second floor is believed to be the art work of Jadrel Sangye Dorje Rimpoche. Also on the same floor, towards the left, there is perhaps one of the most beautiful mural paintings of Twenty-Taras in the Jigme Lingpa tradition (most prefer the Suryagupta version).

On the ground floor there are also statues of Nyingma protector Damchen Dorji Legpa as well as the statue of the local guardian, Taktshang Sengye Samdrup. The main statue is of Guru Padmasambhava with his eight manifestations circling him. The main statue of Guru is believed to be the last work of Jinzob Damchu from Neyphu (one of his students was late Lopen Omtong from Trashigang).

Getting there.

From Taktshang view point it takes about 45 minutes to reach Ugyen Tsemo. Don’t miss the holy water revealed by Kathog Rigzin Nyinpo. It is few minutes walk towards Yoselgang.

✌️✌️✌️

• This aspect, and even the expansion done by his descendant Sonam Gyaltshen is hardly mentioned by tour guides when explaining to visitors. It wipes out close to 200 years of history by jumping straight to 1692.

(Activities of Kathog Lama Sonam Gyaltshen in Bhutan and in Sikkim)