The villages of Lawa and Lamga in Athang gewog have an intetesting practice. The women are the boss. They decide on matters related to family and community. It is one of last matrilineal communities in Bhutan. At all public meetings, the households are represented by women. They come, they decide and things move.
In the years since I started working in this valley, I have noticed that this tradition has been maintained while it has waned in other nearby communities.
The eldest sister inherits the family house, known as the ma-khim. Literally meaning “mother-house”, the terminology itself indexes to the supremacy of the females. Other sisters, if any, are entitled for a house too and the father (if he wants to be respected as THE man) has to build them.
A man marries into the family as maap (son in-law) and traditionally does not get anything grom his ma-khim. And this practice of entering the home of the wife “empty-handed” also constributes to a less equal status to the wife.
Another interesting fact. There is no concept of pha-zhi (which means father’s farm) as practised in other parts of Bhutan because there was no land holding in the past. Much of the land was on a share-cropping basis.
In the 8th century CE Guru Padmasambhava travelled to Bumthang on the invitation of King Sindhu Raja. While the entire route has not been traced on the ground, from the various hagiographic accounts of Guru meeting the forest dwellers and hunters, the valleys of Athang and Rukha present as good candidates where Guru travelled through.
According to Gangtey Rimpoche, the valley has sacred sites blessed by Guru, which attracted high lamas and meditators such as Lhalung Sungtrel Rimpoche as well as Thuksey Trulkus since medieval times. The valley has been referred from those days as Rukha Lingsum and hosts the Lho Tsendengang and the abode of Palden Lhamo.
It is, therefore, appropriate and auspicious to dedicate a temple to the mahaguru Padmasambhava, whose blessed the valley and the country and to whom the Bhutanese owe a lot for the spiritual gift. A temple was built in 2021 to honour the most important teacher in Vajrayana Buddhism.
The 5-feet Guru statue, made of bronze, was sourced from New Delhi and painted and stuffed with sacred scriptures and other divine objects in Paro. The work took one whole year because of the last lockdown and my own out-country travels.
However, all is well now. The main statue of Guru Nangsi Zillnon has been delivered. The plan is to do a complete set of Guru Tshengye (eight manifestations of Guru).
(The 8 manifestations are: Guru Tsokyé Dorje, Guru Shakya Sengé, Guru Nyima Özer, Guru Padmasambhava, Guru Loden Choksé, Guru Pema Gyalpo, Guru Sengé Dradrok, Guru Dorje Drolö. Anyone interested to any of the 8 gurus may contact me directly.)
“Sir, I am calling from RUB. We would like you to do some work for us.”
“No. I am booked. What is the job anyway?”
“It is do the validation of a new program at Royal Thimphu College from 21 to 24.”
“Oh! Ok. If it is RTC.”
I did free myself. And for the past three days I have chaired the validation committee for a new communication degree at the RTC – a required process to provide an independent review to degree programs offered by the constituent colleges of the Royal University of Bhutan.
I also did free myself from prior commitments since RTC and RUB hold a dear place in my heart, as they opened their doors to me when I ventured into my third career – into the academia. I did it to return the favour and not for anything else.
Gratitude is something I have been taught from my childhood days, where growing up in an impoverished family, we had to depend on the kindness and generosity of our community.
As time passed, my life has been blessed with so many people, and institutions, who have helped me, shaped me, and form a big part of my being. One should never lose the humility to say I was helped.
And of course, it was so much fun to talk to the young students, who don’t hold back in terms of what they want, or have got from the college and the programme. It was also nice to work with three of my former colleagues from BBS and from Bhutan Times days – Jigme Thinley, Damber Ghimiry, and Kinley Tshering. It wasn’t fun to go through 262 pages of the document, though, but life, I guess, comes as package.
In all these experiences and young people I see hope for a better future of our country.
“How many times have you been up?” asks Brian, a visiting surgeon from New York city.
“I don’t remember. All I know is, save for 2020, when everything was shut down, I have been coming up at least twice a year since 1996.” I reply. “And it is always like coming up for the first time.”
Maybe it is the divine powers, but I never get this ‘been-there-done-that’ with Taktshang. Maybe it is the stunning beauty – both natural and man made. Or maybe it is its iconic and celebrity status. I do go up quite often.
This time I walked up with Brian who had blistered soles, a shooting diarrhoea, a headache and giddiness (I think that was altitude sickness) but who was hell-bent on getting up there.
“If you guys have carried up all those timber and cement and boulders, and built that for us, I can pull myself up, even if I have to crawl.”
We laughed. Brian is a guy who makes humour out of everything or always has a way of saying that warms up the world around him. Truly a guy who you would like to hang out with everyday.
So, while you may be doing it again and again, the energy that your travelling companions bring are diffferent. No two trips to Taktshang, therefore, feel the same.
Brian, ultimately, made it up to Taktshang. We celebrated with some energy bars he had packed.
I have many other such inspiring stories.
A Thai woman friend called Penny, who had a stroke the year before, pushed up with the help of two locals we hired. And when she did make it, she said if she died at Taktshang she was ok with it. He faith pulled her up to 10,000 feet, which is dangerous for someone with her condition.
Another time it was with an American professor who was so unfit that we were slow – that an old woman, who was leading a blind husband up, overtook us below the cafeteria. We both laughed at our embarrassing performance.
Philosophically too, if you look closely every trip is different. The weather is different. The sky is different. There is new prayer flag, a new paint job, a new monk caretaker taking you around, a new guy frisking your gho at the entrance. Living your moment means noticing these little things in life, some of which bring you joy.
Some things never change. There is this one enduring constant – the sheer power, blessings and moelam of Taktshang.
Background
The most iconic of all the religious monument of Bhutan, Taktshang – literally translated as “tiger’s nest” is also one of the two holiest places in Vajrayana Buddhism. Mentioned in the biography of Guru Padmasambhava, Pema Kathang, it attracts thousands of pilgrims everyday. It is also a must-stop for visitors into the country who are awed by the sheer location and picture-perfect setting with the Himalayan mountains.
I made my annual hike to Dodeydrak, which included an overnight stay there.
Dodey-drak takes it names from the myth that the sacred scriptures, Dodey Kezang, is buried inside the rock as a terma.
The holy site was founded by Je Yonten Thayi, the 13th chief abbot of Bhutan, who was guided in his vision to open a replica of the famous Tsari Rongkor of Tibet, after his visit there. A temple was built in 1779 with Buddha Shakymuni as the main statue, and the statues of Buddha of Three Eras (Duesum Sangye).
The main temple also has a statue of deity Zinchen Wangmo who accompanied Yonten Thayi on his return from Tibet. She then became the deity of the places associated with Je Yonten Thayi in Bhutan such a Nalanda and Phajoding.
Aum Zinchen Wangmo is locally famous for helping people in business and in motherhood. In medieval times traders visited and sought help from the deity during their business trips, offering corals and turquoise as gifts on their return.
Deity Zinchen Wangmo
Another piece to look out for at Dodeydrak, which is not mentioned anywhere is the magnificient mural of Avalokiteshvara painted by Je Jamyang Gyeltsen, which is believed to have shed tears when he passed away. The painting almost speaks to you.
The Pema Zang Temple has a beautiful Long Life Trinity (Tshela Namsum) of Tshepamey (Buddha Amitayus), Namgyelma (Unisha Vijaya) and Droljang (Green Tara), plus a corner for the Palden Lhamo (Dharmapala Kaladevi), the place is a go-to if one if having health issues and instability in life. They have helped recover three of my American friends from life threatening diseases. One was even considered as terminal.
Getting there Dodeydrak is a 2-hour vertical climb from Jungshina, a quartier in north Thimphu. Another less strenous walk is from Dechencholing Gonpa
First visit since 2019 to Chimi Lhakhang in Punakha. Feeling blessed, and reminded not to be bogged down with social conventions, cultural norms or traditional thinkings and, instead, to practice dharma in its purest form, which are loving-kindness and compassion.
The sacred site is associated to lama Kunga Legpa Zangpo (1455–1529), who is more popularly known as Drukpa Kunley (འབྲུག་པ་ཀུན་ལེགས་) because he was a lama born in the Drukpa Kagyu lineage. He was known for his unconventional ways and wisdom of practicing the dharma, which bordered on being outrageous and profane with excessive sexual overtone. Thus he was known as the Divine Madman, but is one of the most favorite yogis in the history of Tibetan Buddhism.
He wandered looking for best wine and women. He came to Bhutan because he was told the best alcohol and the most beautiful girls were in Bhutan. He urinated in the temples and at solemn spiritual gatherings in the established monastic institutions in Tibet. He disturbed the large religious sermons with his antics and actions that defied basic social normal norms – including one that involved the king-terton Pema Lingpa. He challenged every lama and yogis of his time and defeated them in debates and religious discourses.
Popular legend has it that children and old people loved him. He had gifts for them all the time. They followed him when he showed up in their villages. He had no ego or inhibition of any kind, and people either ran away from him, or chased him away. He was last seen in front of Lhasa Jowo statue, where he left his slippers and his walking stick.
Behind his antics and exploits, and superficial assessments, lies a deeper meaning – of the danger social norms and cultural conventions taking over the true essence of Buddha Dharma. Of people confusing with culture over religion. Drukpa Kunley also decried hypocrisy and inhibitions. He rejected dogmas and decorum of any form. He simply refused to bend to the social order, and instead proposed the spiritial essence of Vajrayana Buddhism – loving kindness and compassion.
He was a bodhisattva. His pees turned into gold drops. He foretold the demise of many lamas. He played pranks on his cousin, Lama Ngawang Chogyel, by reading his materialistic thoughts and embarrased him by announcing them to the public. He helped Bhutanese communities and families get rid of evil spirits and demons. It is believed that he never died and instead dissolved into Lhasa Jowo (Buddha Maitraya) statue by entering through its nose.
Chimi Lhakhang was established by his cousin, the more conventional Lama Ngawang Chogyel, on the spot where Drukpa Kunley tamed the powerful demoness of Dochula. Chimi literally means “No dog” and refers to the demoness who turned into a dog, and which was vanished into the earth by Drukpa Kunley. A stupa now stands on that spot where the dog disappeared.
Chimi Lhakhang has been popularised as a Fertility Temple for its child-bestowing powers to childless couples. I personally know a few foreign couples who became proud parents after visiting here.
Lhabab Duechen, literally meaning “Most Auspicious Day of Descending God” and popularly rendered as Descending Day of Lord Buddha, is a very important religious festival that is celebrated in all Buddhist cultures, especially in Bhutan.
What is the background, though? Here it is – in street English.
So like, Buddha was enlightened, and Shiva* (Lha Chenpo in Bhutanese) found him to be more knowledgeable than his colleague-gods. A cool guy to hang out with or to listen to. He suggests to Brahma (Dz: ལྷ་ཚངས་པ་, Lha Tsangpa) and to the King of gods, Indra (Dz: ལྷའི་རྒྱལ་པོ་བརྒྱ་སྦྱིན་; Lhayi Gyalpo Gya Jin) to invite Buddha to Trayastrimsa heaven to give some talks and teachings.
Buddha accepted the offer and went up, as he could also meet his mother, Mayadevi**, who was on her way to hell from there. She also needed to receive the teaching that would liberate her.
After three months in the realm of thirty-three gods, his mortal disciples were missing him and messaged him to return to earth. Buddha, in the beginning, debated if he should come back. Ultimately he did after a week.
And on his descent from heaven they laid out a special ladder built by Viswakarma, the deity of metal artisans. This “descent” is celebrated as one of the Four Great Deeds (because no one has ever descended down from heaven), and as one of the 12 Great Deeds in Buddha’s life. Maybe because they thought they lost him to the Hindu gods.
After that trip, his disciples refused to let him go to other realms. Those realms were later served by his emanations such as Guru Padmasambhava, Ling Gesar, Milarepa and Nagarjuna (he taught the naga-serpent realm).
Lhabab Duechen is a very holy day and any sin you commit is multiplied by ten million times. On the other hand, any good you do multiplies by ten million times. It is big reason to accumulate good merits on this day.
Photo 1 – Brahma and Indra inviting the Buddha. Both of them appear as dharmapala (protector of dharma) in Buddhism
*Shiva is considered an emanation of Avalokiteshvara in Nyingma tradition and referred to as Lha Wangchuk Chenpo)
**Because he saves his mother, the Day is now declared as Mother’s Day in Bhutan by His Holiness Je Khenpo).
Had a terrific three-day stay in Bumthang showing off the true and authentic Bhutan to my friends.
They were totally blown away. From the hotel they stayed in (Mountain Resort) to drinking teas with the monks at Karchu Dratshang; from bumping into the deity proptiating rituals at Bebzur anim dratshang to the grandeurs of Ogyencholing Nagtsgang, Bumthang has so much to offer beyond the classic pilgrimage tours.
Bumthang is that humble and hospitable Bhutan – one thing that is slowly eroding in the much-urbanised Thimphu or Phuntsholing. There people invite random stangers to their houses, they feel blessed to have guests, and the service is genuine – from the heart.
At Kharchu Dratshang we stumbled upon monks doing sand mandala. We were so mesmerised that we stood around for, maybe, too long that they started preparing tea and snacks for us. My friends were shocked. In their countries, they said they would be kicked if you stay for far too long.
In Bebzur anim dratshang, I used a contact in Thimphu to check if we were allowed to visit because monastic centers are conducting their annual exams and they could be closed for visitors.
Not only we we allowed, the nuns received us as if we were VIPs and hoped we would find the visit worthwhile. You bet! With the most exquisite clay works of Guru, Tara and Vajrasattva, I could not take my eyes off the statues and the mural paintings. (Check the photos).
As we talk about transformations and tourism rethinkings, I hope that people in Bhutan will always remember as to what makes Bhutan special. Visitors don’t come for anything but to see, feel, dive into the sense of humanity and hospitality they are missing in their societies. Driven by a broken economic model, westerners, especially, are longing for that authentic human connections and care. And see our culture abd customs.
Basic service standards have to be met for which regulators may throw the rule books at you. But if authentic Bhutanese hospitality and humanity are lost, no amount of stars ratings or rebranding will attract the visitors.
Bumthang is the birth place of Vajrayana Buddhism – the essence of Bhutan. I pray that Bumthang continues to be beacon of hope and humanity for eons to come
Getting there
Bumthang is connected by domestic flight from Paro. By road it takes 8 hours to get there.
Bebzur Anim Dratshang
The nunnery is just few minutes drive above the famed Mebar Tsho (Burning Lake). There is a signboard on the left. A must-visit.
The nunnery is under the patronage of His Holiness (only other lama to get this title in Bhutan) Gangteng Trulku Rimpoche of the Peling tradition.
https://bhutanmountainresort.com/ is a family-run 3/4-star hotel in the main Chankhar Valley. The mother heads the kitchen, the daughter is at the front desk, and the sons help being handymen wherever extra hands are needed. Truly a homely feeling one gets being there.
Ogyencholing is at an hour drive from Chamkhar, where the airport is. The drive has some spectacular views too.
In the picture are half of the self-appointed wisdom keepers, a club of friends from five countries who believe in the importance of ancient and traditional wisdoms for the present and for future generations.
We just had an amazing first meeting in the wilderness of Zhemgang – in a 8th century temple complex. It was my idea to host it there and not in a 5-star hotel in Thimphu or in Paro.
Now we are absorbing the power, blessings and wisdoms of Bumthang. Of a nyeb (territorial deity) that stole the life force of a king, and of a stone pillar that served as a seal by Guru Rimpoche to subjucate a tshomen (lake deity). Or of speaking statues, fire burning inside lakes or temples built in one night. It is through the interest and curiosity of those who don’t have such rich stories and legends that we also learn to appreciate what we have.
Homo sapiens survived because they used stories to create shared beliefs, so claims Yuval Noah Harrari in Sapiens. The story of fairies building the statue of Guru in Tamshing, of Bhutanese forces defeating the Tibetan invaders in Batpalathang (mispronounced from Baep-lepthang, which means where “Tibetans were crushed”) are stories that united and defined us as Bhutanese communities.
Every story carries a theme, a moral or a wisdom from our ancestors – of cooperation, commitments and of compassion. Myths and legends encourage to find the balance between the good and bad, between the light and darkness, and between the Yin and Yang – and not the vanquishing of the what are perceived to be bad or evil. They make humans as interdependent and integral part of the six realms – and not as the undisputed masters or as unscrupulous exploiters. These wisdoms are something that we need to preserve and pass on to the next generation.
Sampa Lhendrup Lhakhang, which literally means “intentions fulfilling temple”, in Kurjey was built between 1894 and 1900 by the first King of Bhutan, Ugyen Wangchuck. It contains the biggest statue of Guru Sampa Lhendrup – the wish fullfilling Guru Padmasambhava.
Story goes that at the time of consecration, King Ugyen Wangchuck, who was still Trongsa Penlop (Governor) then, conducted a special ritual that involved generosity and loving kindness practice.
During the 3-day ceremony all attendees, even ordinary farmers, were invited to enter their palace (read as residence), Thinley Rabten, and take away anything they liked from the house. One item per person, was the only rule.
At the conclusion of the ceremony, it is believed that the palace became empty, and everything was taken away. The King-to-be and the consort, Ashi Rinchen Pelmo, subsequently went without proper food for a couple of days. When the servants served a broth of some rice salvaged and collected from the floor of the store and the house, the defacto King and Queen of Bhutan are believed to have said that that was the best meal they had.
Thinley Rabten, that residence is also no more. Probably it got depleted and abandoned thereafter. It appears only in the oral history of the locals as having been connected by the first motorable road from there to Wangdicholing palace.
Stories of such sacrificed by the Kings of Bhutan are plenty, and the Bhutanese tend to take it for granted.
The Sampai Lhendrup temple, as the name would have it, is a wish-fullfilling one and prayers and moelams made here are believed to be answered. In fact there is also a large statue of Guru facing the door, and facing towards the North, which was commissioned by the Second King of Bhutan to ward off possible invasions from foreign forces during the Tibetan Uprisings of the 1950s.
Source: Late Dasho Karma Gelay to the author
(Picture – Monks returning from lunch break in Kurjey.)
Guru Sampai Lhendrup Temple is the one in the middle
Dorji Wangchuk 