A new era for the airlines?

Druk Air has resumed scheduled flights to Gelephu. It came on the heels of the salang tendrel for the extension of the existing airport, which will play a major role in the Mindfulness City project that was formally launched on National Day. 

Our airlines are more than just airlines. They are our connection and our lifeline to the world. Besides, Druk Air is our national flag carrier. And this is not a small responsibility. In my view, connectivity and furthering national pride and identity should be the main focus of Druk Air. 

The concept of national flag carrier

Allow me to elaborate my argument with some academic studies and experiences from around the world.

As a Bhutanese, I grew up at a time when there was no air service in the country. Bhutan did not even have a helicopter then. I have always loved aeroplanes since I was a child. I watched the Indian jet fighters thunder over our school in Kharbandi. So one can imagine the excitement I felt when I saw pictures of a Dornier aircraft with the national flag on its tail. Of course, back then I was unaware of all the hard work, and the diplomacy of the Highest Office, which went behind to get that tiny aircraft flying. I only learned that much later – first hand.

Today, in the world, there are more than 30 state-owned airlines, and some big names such as Thai Airways and Air India, that run on loss. However, these countries recognise that air transport in general, and national airlines in particular, play a pivotal role by facilitating rapid connectivity, fostering economic growth through tourism and trade, and enhancing a country’s sovereignty and security. Above all, they instil pride and promote national identity by flying the national flag around the world.

Studies by scholars such as Raguraman on the national carriers of Malaysia and Singapore reveal how the governments of these two nations viewed their airlines “as important national symbols and as ‘chosen instruments’ for projecting their countries internationally”. In his paper, he examined the varying ways in which their flag carriers, a term coined at the Chicago Convention in 1944, have served to promote nation building and national identity. There was even a joke back in those days that a nation was not considered legitimate until it had collectible stamps and a flag carrier. 

In recent years, three countries that have taken up building their airlines as their national brands are the United Arab Emirates, Qatar, and Turkey. In the last decade or so, they have gone on, with heavy subsidies from their governments, to build some of the best airlines in the market today. Switzerland did the opposite, only to realise the error and put their flag carrier back in the sky.

Our flag carrier can do more. I have suggested in my article on the Australia exodus that one way to keep an emotional link with our growing diaspora is to establish a physical connection by having our airlines do regular flights to Australia and to the Middle East. That would spark off, what in sociology is called, a circular migration. Maybe to start with, our government could negotiate seasonal flights with these governments, and then slowly make it a scheduled offering. Imagine being greeted by Druk Air’s dragon logo in Kuwait, Qatar or Canberra. Definitely it would help maintain a stronger connection with home through regular visits and investments.

Role of air connectivity for Gelephu

With the launch of the most ambitious project of our lifetime, which would require the best and most convenient connectivity to Gelephu, I commend the decision by Druk Air to resume its scheduled flights there. I understand it also plans to go international using the existing runway and the ATR aircraft to fly to cities like Bagdogara, Kolkata and Kathmandu. That would really act as a catalyst for the project. For these routes even an unpressurised Cessna Grand Caravan would do the job. These have very low operating costs.

In the long run our airlines stand to gain the most from this project – and so does our tourism industry. I hope that Bhutan Airlines, which bravely weathered Covid-19 when many private airlines went bust, will join this noble initiative to build the city of the future. 

As a student of communication, I cannot stress how much communication, connectivity, and connections play a vital role in the making of a nation. Different political parties have been toying with the idea of more airports around the country. Why not? We don’t have to fly the Airbus around. Small aircrafts known as STOL (short take-off and landing) could be deployed like in Nepal and other mountainous countries. There are many makes and models in the market, such as the Twin Otter and Beechcraft. If you have at least 800 metres of runway, you are good to go. We should shed the description of our country as being poor, mountainous or landlocked. It blocks our minds from doing anything big or bold. 

There should be more than just two flights in a week to Gelephu. Agreed that there is no demand now. However, to paraphrase the legendary Steve Jobs of Apple Inc, you create the demand where there isn’t one. That’s how you become a market leader and a trendsetter. I believe that if somehow our airlines could bring down the prices, more could fly, and more demand could be created. This is the business model of budget airlines such as AirAsia whose slogan is “Now Everyone Can Fly”. If the government needs to subsidise our airlines, it should do so. The overall benefit would be spread to the people and to the economy. After all, we are talking about national unity and solidarity, and pressing our economic pedal hard, as we embark on the most important royal initiative for some years to come.

I travel a lot. Nothing is more reassuring than seeing your own people and the flag waiting for you in India, Nepal or Thailand to take you back home. Whenever I am close to Suvarnabhumi Airport in Bangkok on the highway, I always turn my head towards the tarmac where our two airlines, Druk Air and Bhutan Airlines, are usually parked. Seeing either of them with our national symbols always makes me proud.

And like that little boy who was incredibly excited to see the tiny Dornier carry our flag in 1983, I was once again filled with wonder and awe when I landed in Gelephu two weeks back. I just stood there for a couple of minutes savouring that beautiful moment in history.

The Real Bhutanese New Year

This year, 12th January will be celebrated as Sharchop Losar or Chunyipa Losar. However, it appears that this is not just the new year’s day for central and eastern Bhutan, but for Bhutan as a whole.

Historical records show that the Founder of Bhutan, Zhabdrung Namgyel observed this day by returning to Punakha (he was more a travelling ruler) and having his subjects visit him and pay homage and tributes. It is said that the three-way staircase of the main entrance to Punakha Dzong was built to welcome the three regional governors called the penlops on that day. Zhabdrung also made all state appointments while also greeting other lesser regional leaders and their retinues as they paid tribute to him. Thus, the day was referred to as buelwa phuewi nyim, which is poorly translated as traditional day of offering.

Astrological significance

This day falls on the first New Moon after Nyilo – a traditional Bhutanese holiday, and in the month when the Moon meets with the Cancri constellation. In the older Lama Gongdue (བླ་མ་དགོངས་འདུས་) – a terma teaching revealed by Sangye Lingpa (1340-1396), the month is considered as the first month of its calendar year. This was probably the calendar prior to the adoption of the official Buddhist calendar followed in Bhutan. The celebration of New Year on this day in central and eastern Bhutan is thus more local, and more traditional Bhutanese.

According to Bhutanese scholar, Karma Phuntsho (PhD), Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal was a serious follower of Terton Sangay Lingpa’s teachings and incorporated rituals such as the Lama Gongdue into the ritual curriculum of the Central Monastic Body. And this may also be the reason why he marked the day as the day of accepting tributes and a day of celebration with his people.

Why do Tibetans celebrate the New Year a month later?

The Tibetan New Year’s day, which comes a month after, coincides with the Mongolian New Year known as Horda (ཧོར་ཟླ་), which the latter instituted as their calendar – to mark the day of victory over the Tangut Kingdom by the first emperor, Genghis Khan.

After Gushri Khan (1582-1655) invaded Tibet in 1641, the Horda became the Tibetan calendar and thus the Mongolian New Year day was celebrated as the Tibetan New Year. Furthermore, Gushri Khan was referred to as Chogyal (Dharma King). And thus this Losar (New Year) was also referred to as Gyalpoi Losar (རྒྱལ་པོའི་ལོ་གསར་) – King’s New Year. Older folks in Bhutan would be familiar with this term

In essence, the Dawa Dangpi Losar has neither any auspicious significance to Bhutan, nor any important astral reasons. As Dr. Karma Phuntsho adds, it is even odd that we celebrate it as the main Losar, which is a legacy of Mongol rule over Tibet.

Let’s celebrate Chunipa Losar as our New Year

In sociological studies we say that repeated behaviour becomes a habit. A habit embraced by a mass becomes a culture. A culture repeated periodically becomes a tradition. So, we can institute some new traditions, and retrieve some older ones, around this Day, so that over time it consolidates as the Bhutanese New Year.

First of all, call it Bhutanese New Year!
As someone trained in sociolinguistics, trust me, vocabulary matters. To continue with the misnomer Sharchokpa Losar would do no good.

Second, making appointments, promotions and pay raises:
Following Zhabdrung’s tradition, new and important appointments could be made on this day. Promotions and bonuses can be declared on this day.

I am not limiting this invitation to the government only. That would take time. I would rather invite our private sector, and companies to do that. Pay the bonuses and give a salary raise on this day. Why not? As I said, if we all do this every year it would become a tradition. Employees all over Bhutan would be eagerly waiting for this day – and a whole new industry can come up on this just like the red envelope tradition in East and Southeast Asia.

Third, PIT Day. No one likes taxes but as a cliche goes, it is the only sure thing in life besides death. So, why not do it on the eve of this day? Why not celebrate it? Why not file your personal income tax with a prayer that your few ngultrums take this country an inch forward and benefit as many sentient beings? Make it a happy moment to pay your taxes. It is all in the mind.

Fourth – make it a Day of Offering:
Most importantly, as Buddhists, it can be the day of offering to your root-lama and to the gompas you visit, astrologers you consult and places you revere. Just as our forefather did to Zhabdrung, we can do it to the lamas of our time. As we believe in Bhutan, such offerings will “clear your obstacles for this life, and help you accumulate positive merits in your next”. And so, why not start the year with a bang.

Above all, make it a tradition in your own family to meet – and, again, to paraphrase a local saying, “meet and eat one meal together”. If not, WeChat is there.

Happy Bhutanese New Year!

Why do we do annual rituals in Winter months

Today is Nyilo (literally meaning the Return of the Sun), which is an important day in the Buddhist calendar. In Thimphu, Punakha and Wangde it is celebrated as the New Year. In the West, it is called Winter Solstice.

It is believed that today the Sun starts its journey from the South after paying homage to the Lord of South Direction, Yama (Shinje in Dzongkha, གཤིན་རྗེ་), who is also the Lord of Death – or the Lord of Judgement of Death.

Since in the court of Yama is believed to be filled with many dead souls waiting for the trial, some of them escape by tagging along with the Sun.These dead souls called shinpo are considered to cause all sorts of problems in the human world – sickness, accidents, disaccords, loss of property, etc.

To avert such misfortunes, one has to conduct propitiating ceremonies to one’s family protector deities (choe-sung) and kay-lha (birth deities) and invoke the blessing of Sangay Tshepamay for life (Tshe in Dzongkha) and Namsey for wealth (Yang). This is the reason why Bhutanese families conduct annual lochoe (rituals) during winter months.

During the Summer Solstice, the Sun returns from the North and the Lord of North Direction is Kubera – the God of Wealth. So in Summer if one can do propitiating rituals to deities of wealth such as Kubera (Zambala), Unisha Vijjaya (Namgyelma) or Tara (Drolma), it would be great. You need some wealth to pay your bills and do dharma. Many temples across Bhutan do Namgyel Tongcho in Summer.

The king of rituals is Drolma Yuldhog, which is my favourite. I do this twice a year, irrespective of the season because it includes everything – wealth, health, progress in life, enlightenment thereafter, etc.

If you cannot conduct large ceremonies you should at least visit temples and wish away your problems. I usually go to Semtokha because there are three altars in one big hall.

You could also donate a small amount of money to conduct prayers such as Barchel Lamsel, Dukkar, and Sherub Nyinpo. This Saturday and Sunday are very good days to do that. (These days just use mobile banking from anywhere. Contact me if you want to donate to Ngajur Pemachopheling Monastery).

Happy New Year to the natives of Thimphu, Wangdue and Punakha. Please don’t forget to wish me back on Sharchop Losar (coming soon). 😁😁😁

New Year’s day? Time to reflect. Not time to resolve.

New Year’s eve is when many of the promises, which won’t be kept anyway, are made. It is the time when resolutions are listed as we get tipsy and sing the old year goodbye.

Here is a better proposition.

How about that we take a moment to reflect, ponder and be grateful. We simply take too many things for granted – good health, good life and good people around you. And yet, we know that not everything is the same for everyone on the planet. We are the fortunate ones, actually.

Instead of saying, I want to be healthy, maybe you ARE healthy, instead of resolving to be better, maybe you ARE good enough. And if you are thinking of striving, you ARE already thriving.

When you believe you are enough you feel contented. You enjoy the inner peace. You refrain from desiring for more.

So, at least the New Year’s Day, take a time to be grateful. If you look around carefully you will find hundreds of things you can, or should, be grateful for.

If you find nothing, don’t forget that you are still alive. Not everyone made it through 2023.

(Take a moment to list down 10 things you are grateful for. Write them down on a piece of paper. Fold it and keep it in your purse. Later during the year, when you are down, go through the list. And smile 😊😊😊)

(Picture: On a boat off the coast of Bali, Indonesia. July 2023)

Gelephu Mindfulness City – a perspective

Big and bold ideas are often perceived differently by different people. We make sense of the world and events based on our belief systems, assumptions, worldviews, interests, and on circumstances we grew up with. So, let me share my understanding of this most ambitious and important project of this era – the Gelephu Mindfulness City – a concept like no other.

Let me start by clarifying, what it is not? The proposed Mindfulness City will not be a futuristic metropolis like Dubai or Singapore with megamalls and skyscrapers. The new “city” will be spread horizontally over a large area of 1,000 square kilometres. Farmland, heritage sites, biological corridors, and national parks will all be protected. 

There also seems to be a major misconception among the Bhutanese that everything will be taken over and flattened to build this city. That does not seem to be the case either. Investors and institutions, both foreign and local, will be invited to submit their proposals to set up their branches and businesses here, and state land will be allocated according to the master plan. I believe that as much as possible, public infrastructure will be built on government land. If private land needs to be acquired, they will refer to industry best practices to ensure fair compensation.

What is it, and what does it mean for us?

Commitment of our King: The initiative is, first and foremost, a project envisioned by His Majesty the King with the people in mind – especially the youth. It is like an aspiration we have as parents for our children, so that they can live a happy and a fulfilling life. As someone who has taught in colleges and seen the raw talent of thousands of our youth, I have always felt that as a society and as a government, we have short-changed them by failing to create adequate opportunities. This bold initiative will address this shortcoming. 

Coming of age: Bhutan has sacrificed a lot for the sake of the planet. In terms of ecological services, when monetised, Bhutan has been contributing something to the tune of US$ 15 billion (GDP is 3 billion). Maybe we leaned a little too much towards environmental conservation and deprived ourselves of the economic benefits and financial stability – something that became apparent during Covid-19. Of course, the new concept is not a U-turn from these conservation policies. It could be characterised as an attempt to find a balance between economic growth, environmental conservation, and cultural heritage.

Gelephu, thus, is a service to humanity that offers a new approach to being and living. It will be a peaceful space in the green Himalayan foothills, with clean water, food and crisp air, and where people meet their souls and add meaning to their lives. It will also be a place to pursue one’s passions, dreams, and career productively.

Common goal. Collective imagination: The Gelephu project has inspired a nation, sparked the collective imagination, and will give the Bhutanese a sense of shared purpose. As a social thinker, I have been lamenting the fact that as a country we have lacked a common goal since the advent of Parliamentary democracy in 2008. As elected governments come and go, we are pulled in different directions. 

His Majesty’s royal address at the National Day was the most powerful since the Coronation Address. The scene of youth flashing the lights from their phones and singing a tribute to our King, who was standing in their midst during the National Day Concert is still fresh in our minds. I had the fortune of witnessing something similar again at the consecration of the Water Treatment Plant in Gelephu. This is symbolic of the entire nation that is rallying around our compassionate young King who has unveiled the most courageous leap forward to build a mindful nation based on the timeless values and principles of the Three Jewels.

It looks like the nation has woken up from a long slumber and walked straight into a beautiful dream. There is a lot of work to do. However, as His Majesty has said, “We should worry but we should not doubt” (our intentions or our capabilities).

So, what is our role?

Gelephu is firstly a Bhutanese vision. We need to rally everyone from every corner of the country to solidly stand behind it. People should feel a part of, have a stake in, and believe we will benefit from this endeavour. We need to instil confidence in our youth – the main beneficiary and the builders of this project. To do that, we just need to shower them with love and faith, just as loving parents would do to their children. It means to have their back if they need us, reassure them if they make honest mistakes, and show them that we really care. If we do that our youth will charge uphill for us.

The obvious question then is, do they deserve our love and faith? You bet they do. Let’s not forget their service to the nation during Covid-19. While leadership mattered, our Desuup volunteers patrolled the borders in the scorching Sun, distributed food and essentials to our doorsteps, and stepped up when the country needed them the most. What more do they have to prove?

Finally, we need to share our enthusiasm with the world and invite them in, provided they share the same beliefs.

Will they come though?

How do we attract investments and residents into this place? What is the pitch? How do we characterise this new “city”?

World over, especially after Covid, people feel the urge to slow down, even quit the rat race, return to nature, live a more meaningful life, or escape to a faraway place that welcomes them – even for a few days. Perhaps Gelephu can be such a place – a beautiful spot in the Himalayas framed by the living Edens of the Royal Manas National Park and Phibsoo Wildlife Sanctuary, that enables green, healthy and sustainable living, while building a firm, fulfilling a dream or operating a company out of it.

To add to that would be the traditional wisdom of life based on Buddhism – a 2500-year-plus timeless insight into one’s purpose and the meaning of life. The enduring wisdom of compassion and loving kindness offered from a place, where deer and elephants run in the wild, can be attractive to a world that is torn apart by war, hatred, greed, pollution, traffic, malls and materialism. This is something that only a few places on earth can offer.

Travelling with a group of lamas and Rimpoches for a few days in the vast plains of Gelephu visiting the proposed sites, I had to keep pinching myself to check if I was dreaming. A couple of times as I whizzed past the areca trees and paddy fields, I had a feeling of being in a parallel matrix. This is what attracts me to this project, and what will attract them. It has sparked something in me.

So, will they come? To paraphrase a line from one of my favourite films, Field of Dreams: If you build it, they will come. In this movie, the main character, a farmer facing foreclosure, instead imagines a baseball field in the middle of his cornfield where his idols, including his father, could come and play despite being long dead and gone. He suddenly hears a voice, “If you build it, he will come”. The farmer builds the baseball field and the ghosts of these players, including his father, do appear and play. The moral of the film is, if you believe in what you do, the impossible will happen.

In conclusion – the Golden Thread

The project is, however, more than just a fancy airport and mind-blowing infrastructure. To me, it is the idea and the intent behind it, which we need to ponder upon as a country. It is about thinking loud and doing things differently without the trappings of bureaucracy, petty-mindedness, “third-world” mentality or limiting ourselves of being a Landlocked country. It is about being brave and imagining big, but always with the greater good in mind – country and humanity. This is what a friend of mine views as the golden thread of this new vision.

In one of my essays I characterised Gelephu as a train station like the one in Sergio Leone’s film, Once Upon a Time in America, where no trains arrive.

Now the train is finally coming to Gelephu – both physically and metaphorically.

________________________________________________
Dorji Wangchuk (PhD), Professor, Writer, Researcher
(Views expressed here are personal of the author)

The article appeared on Kuensel of 30.12.2023)

Beyond the National Day 2023

So, the much-awaited National Day 2023 came and went. 

We sang, we danced, we poured out our hearts, and posted selfies on social media. We shared royal images of our Kings and Queens. We wrapped the buildings with the national flag. We recommitted our undying love to our country on Facebook. And far away, on the foreign shores, we came out in colourful national dress. and got together and partied together.

We listened to our King who spoke from the heart, which got us fighting back our tears. Some, of course, were not as strong. They cried like babies. But that’s okay. Tears, as they say, is a language that God understands. In our case, our King does. Trust me.

We all pledged to solidly rally behind the King – to roll out the sleeves, and work together, so that we can leave a lasting legacy – a country better than we inherited, and a nation stronger than the one which our Fourth Druk Gyalpo gave his tears, blood and sweat for 34 years.

So, what is next? To be honest, as people, in terms of commitments and behavioural changes, if the past editions of the National Day are to go by, our patriotism seems to have a very short shelf life. The day after getting fired up, we are back to our old self. We will be back to hierarchy, bureaucracy and VIP culture. Shopkeepers will be idling away waiting for the customers. People will be jumping back to the get-rich-quick approach – instead of looking for new opportunities, learning new skills or innovating their products or services. Simply put, nothing much will change.

This is a big paradox, because I know our respect for our King is real, the tears are real and the feelings are real. And yet, as quickly as we get excited, it seems to die out as quickly. I have tried to analyse why this is happening. Here is one probable explanation. 

The fire in our heart – or the lack of it

Blame it on the small-society syndrome, where what others might think, or say, determines our own thoughts and actions. Or blame it on our education system, which celebrates rote-learning over real learning, and competition over collaboration. One thing is for sure. As children transition to adulthood, somewhere along we manage to extinguish the fire in their hearts – and deprive them of their childhood curiosity, empathy, critical thinking and passion. Instead we school them towards conformism, conventions, complacency and unhealthy competition. 

Who is, then, bewildered that we have a herd mentality and not individual creativity? How can we complain that everyone is opening Dhaka sales or tour agencies, or rushing to Australia? Why lament the fact that we don’t regard one another with the same level of respect we accord to, say, foreign visitors?

This is sad, because from my experience of having taught diverse nationalities in this short university teaching career, Bhutanese may be ahead in terms of individual brilliance. We need to encourage creativity instead of conformity, community in place of competition, and compassion over ego. We need to celebrate every student as a champion in his or her own right. Among other things, in Macau they grade the students as A+, A-, B, C and D – and for what they are worth individually – and not pitch one against the other by placing them as first or second, passed or failed.. 

Since lately, I have decided to accept the hard reality that it is simply not there in us to be imaginative, creative, innovative or empathetic – definitely not among the average educated lot. It is nothing intentional. It is the result of how we are educated, and socialised. Therefore, those who can think, create or inspire, should lead, do and show. Those who are endowed with the agency to envision and see the future should offer themselves in the service of the greater good. Those who fully comprehend the Royal Vision, must break it down for others and list down the opportunities and potentials to help derive the maximum benefits.

The new vision

Every generation is presented with a challenge to prove its worth. This generation is now faced with the most pressing issue of its time – to secure the economic base of our country before it is too late. If Covid-19 has taught us one thing, it is that, despite all talks of globalisation, every country must ensure its economic independence, and fend for itself.  

To start with, we Bhutanese must shred off the mindset that the world owes us something. First of all, we are, now, not even in the list of the least developed countries that warrants someone’s sympathy. Second, Covid-19 has revealed that when times are rough each country will take care of its own interest, which is, of course, fair enough. Bhutan has learnt the hard way to identify its key interests and pursue them – one way or the other. 

Simply put, we need to build our own economic base, so that the future is not only guaranteed, but can also generate gainful employment with higher income. In the long run, hopefully, this would reverse the trend of out-migration, which to me, and I have said it before, is the most significant threat to our nation of our time.

The vision for an economic hub in Gelephu is towards this national goal of self-reliance. I don’t have the details, but after hearing His Majesty’s royal address, I have no doubt that it would be awesome. 

Relight my fire

Whatever we plan, the youth of Bhutan will ultimately have to be a part of, and take ownership of the vision. So, how are our young people responding? What is my observation? 

As the National Day drew to a close and the music filled the air of the Thimphu night, I took a stroll along Thimphu Norzin Lam, absorbing the celebratory mood, and taking pictures and posting them on my social media feeds. As I was doom-scrolling my phone for the images and videos of the day, I ran into several Instagram stories, in which our King and Gyalsey were featured, without the security details, standing in the stadium with some 20,000 and watching the National Day Concert.

Thousands of young people had their mobile torches on and were singing their hearts out to our King, pouring their love – and reciprocating the same love that the King had showered to the people that morning during the Royal Address. 

The lyrics went something like, “Thanks to our past karma that we are born as Your people. If we don’t accumulate the same merit in this life, please let’s be reborn as other sentient beings in Your vicinity”. 

The video, which is shared widely, made me teary again and will be etched in our collective memory for years to come. In this cry and chorus of thousands of our young people, and in this unprecedented act (you never sing directly to the King out of respect, or light a torch in his direction), I observed one thing, and that our Gen Z is different. They will do anything for our King, as our forefathers did – even lay down their lives to defend our country. Our youth are also ready to offer their blood and sweat, as my parents did when they built the first motor road with their bare hands in the 1960s.

Maybe my generation poured the water over the fire of their hearts, but those little hearts are far from being extinguished. They are still burning. Or maybe, it was our King who lit the fire again that morning – the fire of love, the fire of selfless service, and the fire that will warm the hearts of our small great nation called Bhutan.

Something, I see, is burning again. I think that something is called hope.

Showing off my latest award

😎😎😎
OK. Jokes apart, this is big, and very prestigious in our world – the rarefied ivory towers of academia, where your whole research work done in your PhD years is recognised. It was conferred at the National Communication Association in Washington, DC – the world’s biggest association of academic peers in the communication and social science.

I am coming back to speak of it again for two reasons.

In recent days, seeing some of my good friends being recognised, some acquaintances on the victory pedestals, and some of my mentees going triumphant – all made me extremely proud as a Bhutanese. In spite of all our misplaced egos, we must remember that we are a nation of less than a million and to be doing well as a country, as a nation, and as individuals is something we need to take pride in. So, I thought this piece might also warm up many hearts on the even of the National Day.

Second, and more importantly, there are many young Bhutanese who are doing their postgraduate studies. Anything academic is stressful. We all know that. Postgraduate years are even more stressful, and frustrating and exasperating. PhD time is actually a very lonely journey. Very very lonely. And depressing at times. You wake up every morning and start rethinking your life’s choices. “Who forced me to do this?”, “I am dumping everything and going home. NOW!”, “Why is everyone’s research topic smarter than mine?” “Why does mine sound so dumb?”.

How many times have such deprecating thoughts crossed your mind?

With this post, I thought, maybe all those who are going through such dilemma and the pain of finishing the dissertation, and those who plan to pursue the highest that modern academia has to offer, will be encouraged to believe that this over-glorified thing called PhD is not only within their reach, but that they could also produce something that others in the field will recognise and acknowledge. It is within everyone reach.

I have taught three nationalities – in large cohorts, I mean. And let me say that Bhutanese are no less than anyone. In fact we are as smart or even smarter. Our problem is: we are bit laid back and one ugly thing is: we refuse to acknowledge each other.

So, to all of you, lonely people (read as PhD and maters candidates), out there, keep going!

You can’t imagine how many times I kicked myself. I even had to go back to the field, and write the main summary chapter, in the midst of pandemic, when I was also protecting my 30+ clan members from coronavirus.

And to all those who are not in this business of postgraduate studies, just tag your friends or family members doing masters or PhD, so that this simple message gets to them.

Happy National Day (On Dec 17th)

NB:
Anyone who wants to read my super Dissertation, which actually no one will read😁😁😁, can drop me your email

(Sorry! No photo of mine with the award. I couldn’t travel to Washington DC to receive it because of prior work commitments. My guru and PhD supervisor, Prof Sandel, received it on my behalf on Nov 15 🤩🤩🤩)

Something Thimphu lacks

Got invited to the first Write Circle in Thimphu – an event for writers in conversation with other writers and readers – brought to town by Bhutan Echoes Festival Team.

It was a lovely evening. Such cultural events are something that I miss in Thimphu. Meaning the city has very little on permanent offer in terms of contemporary art and culture. For instance, there isn’t even a large public library where people can just hang out. Few book shops and an art gallery are all we have in the country.

Of course, those of us seeking such a place, or events, may be in the minority, but then a society could easily stagnate and regress when there is no investment in art, philosophy and culture. (And just to clarify, dzongs and temples are more of spiritual heritage sites in my definition. Culture is something more dynamic that responds to the changing circumstances around us – and which reflects mundane life and society).

So, amidst the overpowering election campaigns and gossips, and the nausea from AI-generated pictures flooding my social media feeds, it was a refreshing evening to listen to an author who sees beauty in the ordinary.

That’s what art and literature do. You see beauty in everything. Beauty in a tree, a river or in people. You heart opens. You see more. You live more.

Sometime back, someone asked my opinion on the changes in the course offerings of the Royal University of Bhutan – where apparently lots of arts and humanities courses were done away with – and replaced with digital technology programs.

My response was, “Science and technology, which have taken the first part of my life, make things comfortable for us. But art, philosophy and social science, which have given me a second inning to my career, make life itself worth living”.

Yes, that’s paraphrasing a line from my favourite movie, Dead Poet Society:

“Medicine, business, law, engineering… these are noble pursuits and necessary to sustain life. But poetry, beauty, romance, love… these are what we stay alive for.”

#MaanKiBaat #art #literature #philosophy #music

Chumphu Nye – Between sky and earth

This hidden sacred paradise is my favourite of all the sacred places in Bhutan – even more than the super famous Taktshang.

The temple was established by Sacha Rinchen (1710-1759) – the ninth Je Khenpo, and perhaps the greatest of them all.

Chumphu was built as Tsari Nyipa (Second Tsari) – with reference to the famed Tsari (Crystal Mountains) in Tibet, which is believed to be the eternal abode of Dorje Phagmo. Story has it that Sacha Rinchen in his vision saw Dorje Phagmo telling him that in future the first Tsari would see a decline, and Chumphu Nye will be her main abode. 

The main inner relic is a 5-feet tall statue of Dorje Phagmo (Vajravarahi), which according to one legend is rangjung (self-arisen) and not man-made. The other legend is that it was discovered in a lake – located some 30 minutes up the temple.

Whichever be the true story, the marvellous thing about this statue is that it is levitating – meaning it is floating. 

I first visited this place in 2010 with a friend of mine called Sherub who grew up down in the valley. Sherub remembers playing with a bow string, by holding each end and making an arc, and throwing the string behind the statue, like a magician, and pulling both the ends from the gap below. This was done to prove that the statue was not anchored to the wall behind it.

Some 20 years back, a framed altar was built and the statue is sealed behind the glass, now, no one is allowed to do that. However, the levitating left foot can still be seen.

Chum(o)phu (meaning Female Water Mountain) can be reached from Paro Lhakhang Saarp after a gradual 4-hour climb and can be done as a pleasant day hike.

Dorje Phagmo (Skt: Vajravarahi; lit: Thunderbolt Sow) is the wrathful form of Vajrayogini, known as the foremost, supreme queen of all dakinis and a divine consort of Heruka Chakrasamvara (Khorlo Demchok). She is the Samantabhadri of wisdom, activities, and accomplishments, and therefore known throughout as the “Mother to all Buddhas”—the Ultimate Refuge for all deities, practitioners, and meditators of the Buddhadharma.

#vajravarahi #dorjephagmo #vajrayana #buddhism #paro #chumphunye #bhutan #temple

The pilgrimage starts as soon as you leave the car and start walking

Of rituals and recoveries

Story #1 – A young boy is in a long coma – somewhere in a hospital in New York. He was born with cerebral palsy. The doctors have given up hope and have asked the family to prepare for the worst – and to sign off to pull the plug. His sister, however, reached out to me through a common friend from the US with a “Heard you say they do miracles there in Bhutan. Can they do something for my brother?”.

My friend and I were trekking up to the Dodeydra Monastery in Bhutan, which was good timing – a good tendrel (auspicious coincidence), as we believe. When we get to the monastery the abbot compassionately listens to our request. He told me to instruct the family in America to gather around the boy at noon the next day, and face towards the east and pray, while he, the abbot, would launch blessings and prayers from Bhutan.

The next day, 15 minutes after the rituals were over, my friend’s phone rang again. There was screaming and sobbing on the other side. My friend thought the boy was gone. Nope. The boy woke up, and the family was crying out of joy. The doctor rushed in saw what was happening, and left the room in tears. “I have been doing this for 35 years. I don’t what you are doing but keep going,” he was quoted saying.

Story #2 – Recently, this same friend from the US told me that another friend of ours in LA was feeling low. His brother (a practising Zen Buddhist) has been diagnosed with stage 4 lung cancer and has been getting treated. He was going for the last radiation, followed by his review two weeks later. The doctors cautioned any optimism.

I invoked the blessings and conducted prayers for him in several places. My lama, Dorje Phagmo Rimpoche, after blessing him in absentia assured me that he would be alright.

Two weeks later I got a long text from my friend in LA. His brother’s lungs were clear and the doctors couldn’t believe their eyes when the CT scans came back. 

I have more such stories from recent years. A newborn, who was breathing but not moving in a hospital in the US, and who moved her tiny finger after I invoked deity Palden Lhamo. Someone I know, again in the US, who felt fine receiving chemo after we commissioned the monks of Dodedra to chant Sangye Menlha (Medicine Buddha) mantra. He eventually recovered too.

Do these make sense?

I was born in a traditional Bhutanese family – of Buddhist dharma, rituals, prayers, and ceremonies. As a child, I used to accompany my grandfather, who was a lay lama, to conduct rituals for ordinary people in their homes in upper Tashigang in east Bhutan. For me these “things” are normal.

I was sent to a Catholic boarding school and later was sent off to Italy to major in microelectronics and engineering at the University of Bologna. Meaning, science and technology have been my better half, with spirituality and mysticism being the other side. Besides, I was exposed to other spiritual traditions – in that I lived among them.

In my third career in academia I have looked at the relationship between society and spirituality, and the role it plays in individuals. I still a have long way to go, but to answer the question, of whether rituals work, my reply is, it looks like it does. Of late, I have attended to around nine requests for spiritual help from outside the country. Only one did not make it through but the rest are doing fine.

To put it more aptly – medical science can take you very far these days, but it ends somewhere. There is a wall, and that’s where spirituality seems to take over. To put it simply, miracles appear where medicines end.

Of course, the two need not be linear. As my good friend, Nadya, says, the two can go alongside. Meaning while you get medical attention, you can also resort to religious ceremonies and shamanic rituals. After all, science has been with us for not more than 300 hundred years but the magic and miracles have been around for 5,000 – if not more.

As someone who has seen the power of the supernatural in many religious traditions, again, I am not advocating or promoting only the Buddhist rituals. Both Hinduism and Christianity have stories of miraculous power and recoveries. I myself recovered from a bad case of malaria when I was a child – after a mysterious Hindu priest appeared in front of our house in south Bhutan and tied a string around my arm. I started recovering moments later. 

The point is science and technology have made us lose our innate power of healing, to start with, and have also made us skeptical of anything other than modern hospitals to attend to our health. The choice I believe is not to go simply for one or the other – but for both.

Science has made us lose our instincts, our sixth sense, and the power to feel the place and people – and by extension to absorb the energy of any kind, other than energy bars and synthetic painkillers. In short, we have become numb.

Of course rituals cannot cure all the cases but at least, the road of hope is longer than just relying on modern medicines.

And in that last stretch of hope one may find eventually the cure.

And not to forget

The traditional medicines (sowa rigpa) that is mainly based on medicinal herbs are, at times, a better choice than western allopathic medicines. Bhutan was known as Menjong (Land of Medicines) in ancient times – largely exporting rice and medicines to Tibet in exchange for salt, tea, and turquoise.

From my own experience, traditional medicines work better and have no side effects, for chronic ailments like gastritis, elevated bilirubin, bad cholesterol, and hypertension. Whenever I run some blood tests and these things show up, I drop by the Traditional Medicines Hospital in Thimphu to request some pills.

By reciting the Medicine Buddha it is believed that medicines one take increase in power of healing
Palden Lhamo (an emanation of Mahakali) is believed to collect diseases in a black pouch and heal the world
Tara Jigchoma is believed to help us recover from illnesses but also helps with our hypochondria (fear of falling sick)
Masters like Dorje Phagmo confers kago on the sick to help them recover fully and quickly, or prevent people from falling ill.
Neyphu Trulku Rimpoche is considered as an emanation of Medicine Buddha
Mendrub Gonpa, Paro, as the name suggests, was the most famous seat for traditional medicines since the 16th century