15 Dec 2003 – Lest we forget

Dec 15, 2003. We all remember that Day. At least my generation does. It was the day when the Operation All Clear was launched. After living for almost a decade in a peril, this was it.

No one had a hint that it was going to happen – not even us in the media. And so, like on any normal day I had just walked into my office around 10 am (I was the GM in BBS then) in Thimphu when I was informed that it has started. I froze and it took few minutes for me to react. I immediately called up the MD and told him that as per our standard practice, we don’t do the normal programming on the radio. I then rushed to the radio studio and stopped the day’s programming. I think it was Sangay Tenzin, the host on duty and together we pulled out the tape and played the moelam. Back in those days, we always kept a tape with moelam prayers and played it when there were national disasters, emergencies or demise of a VVIP. 

For the next three days, I didn’t work. No one around me did. All I, or we, really did was to hope and pray that nothing happened to His Majesty the King – above all. He was everything to us. Rest was secondary. There was nothing much I could do other than to walk around like a zombie with a deep sense of guilt for not signing up for the militia.

The whole town of Thimphu was quiet like a graveyard. Silence had gripped everything I could see. Even the trees didn’t move. Back in office, we cuddled around rod-heaters in different rooms and shared the bits of information that trickled in from the battle front. The question on everyone’s lips was, ‘Where is zhab now?’

The question on everyone’s lips was, ‘Where is zhab now?’ 

I spent lot of time in the small garage office of my late cousin, Lam Rinzin, checking on our boys who were in the military. We had seven close family members (two from my own household) there fighting. And most of them were officers leading their troops. I never prayed or sought the divine interventions in my life more than I did in those few days. I also challenged every deity in the land that came to my mind to show up – otherwise, I told them, I would never believe they exist. They say people would do anything in desperation. I felt desperate. We all were desperate. We saw the world slipping away in front of us. The beautiful country looked so gloomy. For a moment, I thought we were never going to see our King again. I sobbed alone.

From the next day, NDTV started reporting from the Indian side of the border and it looked like we were doing well. Actually, great. Then came December 17, where HRH the Crown Prince (and now His Majesty the King) announced the great news in Changlingmithang. I cried – together with men and women who were near me – out of a sense of relief to know that our King was fine.

I became religious overnight. Something changed in me dramatically.

As we celebrate the 112th National Day, there is no need to really talk about what happened some two or three hundred years back. Those are legends at best. Let’s remember this Operation – and pledge ourselves to the greater good. For, this happened right before our own eyes – in our lifetime and with our King leading the troops – risking His own life to protect ours. Literally, our King rescued us from the jaws of a very uncertain future. We all lived through it. And it was just 16 years ago. Those who can read this were all born by then.

We, Bhutanese, have short memory. But this event is one in history that we should never forget. There have been quite a number of occasions in recent decades when Bhutanese came together as one nation – as one people.

For me, that moment was the moment I will never forget 

His Majesty the King leading in frontline – as depicted and immortalized in Druk Wangyel Temple in Dochula (built to commemorate that victory)




On December 14, Martshala temple was consecrated by Thuksey Rimpoche and graced by His Majesty the King. Next day the Operation All Clear was launched.



Photos of the fallen soldiers are maintained in Tenxholing Military Academy. They died because we could live. May you live forever in the minds of the Bhutanese


HM the King at the frontline. His name means Fearless Lion in Dzongkha. And fearless he is. No armored jacket and no helmet. Just a modest free gho (national dress). The soldiers nicknamed the platoon with the green gho as “Green Gho Company”


Gold, it was

I must say having watched the football finals of the South Asian Games in Kathmandu, where Bhutan took on the defending champions, Nepal, I am extremely PROUD of the performance by our boys. I am also very HAPPY to see a nation united and rallying behind the team from all over the world. I now rest HOPEFUL for the future of football in Bhutan. Gone are the days when we were not even considered worth playing against by our opponents. Now we are a team to reckon with – at least in the region.

For all these, firstly, my respects and gratitude go to HRH Prince Jigyel Ugyen Wangchuck, HM’s Representative in Sports, for revamping and steering the new sporting movement in the country. And my recognition to our international star, Chencho Gyeltshen, for leading and inspiring his team mates to believe that it is possible to excel internationally. He has done it alone winning the Indian Hero League in 2018. It is so nice to see him lead the others. 

Of late, sadly, politics, technology and greed are tearing our society, and the world, apart. It is important that equally we create occasions, reasons and opportunities to be and to dream together and to cherish as Bhutanese – as one nation. Sport in general, and football in particular, is emerging to be a binding force of national cohesion and unity.

This moment is GOLD in itself.

Well done, Dragon boys





Real cost of cooking gas

This is the cost of LPG non-subsidised gas in Bhutan:

– 35 minutes wait in the cold and dusty outlet – because ‘closed for lunch’
– 10 minutes more wait for just one lady in front of me to be served. She had all the required documents.
– Nu. 773 the actual cost of the cylinder
– 5 minutes more wait for the cashier to look for 1 Nu. notes he didn’t have (I kept quiet to observe the drama)
– Nu. 2 forfeited ultimately since no one, he asked around, had the change 😆😆😆
– 3 minutes wait again since the the guys were unloading a truck and were completely ignoring the lady ahead of me – and me.

Total cost = Nu. 775 + 53 minutes in cold and dust + one disorganised cashier + two stressed-out and public-hating dispensers

My condolence and prayers to all Bhutanese consumers. May you find strength to face this every month. And may this country be forever rich that it can throw away one hour every month from every citizen.


(NB. Let’s monetize the 1 hour and multiply that to the whole country. Assuming that average hourly wage is Nu. 200. If we multiply that for the 150,000 families in the country, we are losing Nu. 30 million every month just because the inefficiency of this one service, which is also paid and not coming free. I say nothing further)


10 Years of Blogging & Brokshi


Semtokha Dzong – This year this day marks ten years of blogging. Yes, it is just ten years. It seems ages, right?

I write on my life and my works to simply share and inspire – and occasionally I opine on society and governance. On the latter, I am often asked why I do I write what I write? Why do I stick my neck out? Is it for publicity? Or is it for vengence? Why am I not “happy” all the time? Or am I just a sour grape?

Well, here is the answer. I write for none of the reasons above. I write because, first of all, I care for the community around me, and for my country. And now, for the world entire. By the grace of my Kings, friends and family, I am OK. But I cannot close my eyes to things, both good and bad, happening in front of me. I believe in the power of words and communication to change for better.

I know in doing so, at times, I am burning bridges, I am burning friendships and I am burning down favours. And in a small country like ours these can be very costly – and I have also paid some heavy prices too. Still, there is one price that I cannot imagine trading away. And that has to do with my conscience – my principle. So, the first reason I write is to clear my own conscience. And put it at rest.

Do my words count? Or do we, the proletariat, matter? I don’t know. And I don’t care. I don’t expect the world to change to my whims and wishes. I don’t expect praises and accolades. And I don’t expect bureaucrats and politicians to listen to me. But they are not my target audience either. My concern is my people – my community. I want them to think, care and act – in every small ways, no matter how small or insignificant. For, people and power will come and go. Whereas the system, nation, state and country will remain.

Simply put, I don’t want to, one day, die (in case you forgot, we’ll all die one day) thinking I didn’t do what I believed in, or didn’t stand my ground or didn’t do what was needed to be done as a citizen – as human being.

So, will keep going for now 🚶🚶🚶

My blog is http://www.dorji-wangchuk.com and http://dorjiwangchuk.blogspot.com

(On the occasion of ten years of successful blogging, I made a donation for the Gyampo Tangrap ceremony in honor of deity Yeshe Gyampo – Mahakala)

Drug tests can be weaponized

This pertains to Kuensel news article, TCB Officials Undergo Drug Test. While I commend the move by the Tourism Council to create a drug-free sector, and have absolutely no doubt on its noble intent (after all, who would like to be guided around the country or be driven by a drug addict), I would invite some caution in jumping into this practice as mandatory requirements at workplace and professions.

Although, I am a no expert on this issue, I was associated with Chithuen Phenday during its inception period and have engaged in deep conversations with hundreds of clients to get some insights into the use and abuse of illicit substances. During that same period, I was also involved in cases where I had to help fight certain stereotyping, legal abuses and common misconceptions. To put it simply, drug addiction, testing or recovery are not a straight-forward or black and white matter. It is very complicated, multidimensional and intricate. I would like to share a few examples here.

First of all, drug tests carried out at workplace or on-site such as sporting facilities and events, are not conclusive. It is only indicative. In simple words, drug tests can never be 100% correct in first instance. In general, the results can be interpreted in two ways:

  1. False positive. False positive means that you have not taken any illicit substance but you are tested positive (as having taken drugs) nevertheless. Even with the best and latest drug-test kits, getting a false positive is a real possibility.  False positive may appear in cases as simple as after consumption of natural substances and common over-the-counter medications – such as food with yeast (bread or yogurt), cold medications, antibiotics and antihistamine (allergy medicines) and even common painkiller such as ibuprofen or taking prescribed antiretroviral drugs. Passive inhaling like being around with friends who smoke marijuana can also produce false positive. False positive, however, means you have failed the drug test. And in a small and gossip-prone society like ours, such a result for anyone, although just indicative, would have a devastating effect on the career, morale, and dignity of a person and would leave an indelible stigma to his or her family and relatives. Worse still, it can be weaponized by someone who may or may not like that person for some reason. For example, bosses and heads at workplace may use them to suppress or eliminate young, upcoming and brighter colleagues. Rival companies and tour guides may use against each other. The possibilities of misuse of false positive results are simply endless.
  2. False negative – False negative is when one actually consumes illicit substances but is smart enough, or accidentally, comes out as ‘clean’. This could occur when the person who is being tested goes on to manipulate the sample (urine) through easily available adulterants and techniques (there are many available online); or when the labs pre-establishes a high drug cut-off levels – and so while the sample contain illicit substances or their metabolites, the concentration levels do not cross the very high cut-off set by the lab or the agency. False negative can also happen when the labs and test kits are not current with the latest drugs in the market. Mind you, drug dealers and serious users are three steps ahead of the Law. Needless to add, that the way our body absorbs, or responds, to alcohol and drugs vary from person to person. Two people consuming the same thing and same amount will produce two different results. Ask any medical doctor.

While the mandatory drug-testing policy, which was also toyed by the Royal Civil Service Commission for all civil servants, may look good on the outside, such a move could open a myriad of unwanted and unintended consequences from the inside. It is an explosive issue – to be dealt with with a great caution. I will mention just two additional unintended outcomes and consequences:

  1. Displacement effect – whereby users will shift from use of easily (and often less harmful drugs) to other drugs that are more difficult to detect – and which are more harmful. Drug and alcohol abuses are not just behavioral issues. It is physiological. The body demands it. It is a disease to be treated like any other diseases. 
  2. Defensive mechanism and creativity – whereby users will explore creative ways to avoid detection – instead of reducing the use. This can be achieved by medications that are legal and which will produce false positive – or use some masking agents, which the drug dealers will discover sooner or later. For example, from my personal experience, lots of my friends, who drank some whisky before going home from work would chew tea leaves that masked the smell of alcohol. That way their wives thought they were always clean.

In conclusion, I am neither here to condone drug abuse nor to criticise the noble initiatives to control drug abuse in the country. What I am saying is, I hope, among others, the above issues and potential ramifications are discussed thoroughly, and experts advices are sought.

For, such as policy could sway either way. Just sharing my experience


Technical education and not vocational training

It was nice of Kuensel (11 Nov 2019) to highlight my school, Don Bosco Technical School (although it was erroneously mentioned as Don Bosco Technical Institute) as the epitome of technical skills and knowledge.

I am an alumni of DBTS. Few years after I graduated, it did become an institute and that was the beginning of the end of technical education in Bhutan. If there is one thing that led to the slow death was when arts, humanities and science subjects were removed and a bare vocational trade subjects were retained. The so-called reform was a disaster.

The DBTS curriculum I went through had all the subjects of a normal school. So I studied Shakespeare and also physics and maths and our exams were conducted by Meghalaya Board of Examinations. Plus we had to complete the Indian Technical Institution (ITI) curriculum. In other words, we were subjected to two full curriculums. And hence our day started at 5am in the morning and ended at 9 in the evening – before we were sent to bed. In other words, we got a well-rounded education, which allowed the graduates to pursue either an academic career (I am currently doing PhD in communication and social media) – instead of being relegated to the blue collar jobs only. 

Unless technical education is mainstreamed back into the school education system, no amount of money or autonomous status or wage improvements or legislations will restore the skills mentioned in this editorial. It should be technical education as it is done in countries like Finland, Norway, Germany and Italy and not sidelined as vocational training, which is demarcated for less “intelligent” students.

Ask any of the alumni from that curriculum and their suggestion will be the same. Current Opposition Leader Lyonpo Pema Gyantsho, MoWHS secretary Dasho Chencho, former Home Minister Dawa Gyeltshen, Supreme Court Justice Rinzin Gyeltshen were all from that curriculum and my seniors. Maybe they can provide some valuable suggestions too.


Hydropower: A second thought?

This pertains to a front-page article and an editorial on Kuensel of 10 November 2019 (I reproduce them below)

Well, I haven’t changed my mind. But does my opinion count? Of course, not. In a country where official position and power are everything, a view of a private citizen is often ignored at best – and considered a nuisance at worst. Nonetheless, as with many things, I do or say even when I know that it is not going to matter anything. That’s called sticking to one’s belief. It is called principle. It is called integrity.

For me, it is still a big NO to any hydropower projects larger than 120MW. NO to any projects that we cannot finance or that we have no control over. And NO to anything that will put our future generation at risk. And a big YES to intergenerational equity as provisioned in the Constitution – and leave some rivers and resources alone for future generations. Twenty years back I believed in this dream. I documented the entire project construction phase of Tala Project. We were promised of untold wealth. We were made to dream. Today we are in a huge debt. We can’t even cough without asking permission. We can’t even sneeze. What a tragedy!

Maybe I missed something but what REALLY has changed in this sector in the last few months? What have we REALLY learnt to merit a “second thought”? Why this sudden turnaround? Nothing that is happening in this sector begs any reason to be optimistic. Can someone send me the big picture, if there is one? Until then, from my little pond, I really don’t understand this new narrative that Kuensel, or the government, is trying to sell.

Lastly, to say that we have only the hydropower eggs basket is like smashing the eggs on the face of educators like me who see and work on deriving the tremendous human potential our Bhutanese youth have to offer.

What a downer! 


Taking tourism to the top? A perspective from Taipei

I have often wondered why Bhutan appeals a lot to foreign visitors. Why is that most tourists leave our country totally enamoured and with lasting impressions of our land and people – despite not staying in the best of hotels, and driving around in pothole-ridden roads and eating chilis whole day? Why does Bhutan regularly show up as one of the top destinations in the world? The latest is by the global travel publishing company, the Lonely Planet.

Here is a perspective from an avid traveller – me.

In Bhutan, we often talk about our unique culture and unspoilt nature as the selling points. Yes, we have some colorful traditions. So do other countries – and each culture is unique in its own way. We have high Himalayan mountains, for sure. However, the peaks in Nepal are taller, while many in Switzerland are even more gorgeous. As for the unspoilt nature, tropical rainforests in our own neighbourhood are bigger and as pristine.

Then, what is really magnetic about Bhutan? If there is one thing that I have to pinpoint to, it is the spontaneity of our people – the human element – our genuineness. So I disagree with some eminent writers who have, in the past, pointed out that we are being hypocrites. We are not. We are, as Lonely Planet best describes, “kind-hearted people” who are inherently nice to strangers. 

Lessons from Bali and Taiwan

Two places that I have been visiting in recent times are Bali and Taiwan. Both these destinations boast of a very robust tourism industry. Taiwan has some mind-dazzling achievements to show off too. Their high-tech industry has also translated into fast and convenient public services making everything from applying for visas to booking air tickets to paying even street shops traveller-friendly. The high-speed rail and the roads are world-class. The temples and landscapes, and especially the paddy fields and tea plantations, are simply poetic. And, of course, the cuisine is one of the best that I have come across.

Bali, of course, is Bali.

Nonetheless, more than the stunning natural or man-made beauty, it is the ordinary people that will ultimately draw or drive away the visitors. From my experiences in these two places, I realized how important it is for the locals to be welcoming, friendly and helpful to outsiders. It is something missing from many countries I have visited. From the moment you step out of your flight you don’t feel unwelcome. On my first visit to Taiwan, I travelled extensively and all I can say is that I simply basked in the warmth of hospitality and smiles wherever I went. Nobody was even close to being rough on me. I interacted with indigenous people as well as street vendors, with young students, with professors and with people in upscale tourist markets, malls and Michelin-stared restaurants. Wherever I went, I felt accepted and at peace.

More than the stunning natural or man-made beauty, it is the ordinary people that will ultimately draw or drive away the visitors

On the second visit, this time to Fu Jen University, one evening I was scanning down the countless eateries and cafes when a young professor who was at one of my lectures cycled towards me. “Hey Dorji! Are you looking for something?” “Yes, a place to eat”, I said. “Okay, follow me”, he suggested and diverted from where he was going to where I was heading for. When we finally found a place he also insisted that he pay for my meal – although he already had his dinner. He added that he learnt many things from me and that it is an honour for him to do that. He left shortly after my food arrived. I was so moved by his gesture.

And coming to Bali, one of the most exquisite destinations on Earth, last summer, on our return hike from the sunrise trek to Mt. Batur, my daughter who had twisted her ankle was struggling to walk the last couple of kilometers of the dirt road – when a construction worker stopped his work and came zooming on his motorcycle. “You are fit. She is not. I pity her. I take her to the van”, he offered. I later caught up with him and thank him and reciprocated his kind gesture. Another time I had forgotten my purse after I had eaten in a road-side stall. The woman just laughed her life out seeing me embarrassed and told me that it was okay. I could return anytime with the money I owed her. I have many stories of local generosity in these two places that I can write a book.

All in all, Taiwan may be advanced and awesome, and Bali may be blissful and beautiful, but it is thanks to such personal accounts and tales of random acts of kindness that an outsider ultimately feels at home – and talks nice about a place. Even in this age of TripAdvisor and Google Maps, word-of-mouth will continue to be the most influential form of advertising and marketing. There is still power in human speech.

Taking Tourism to the Top?

There is so much talk about taking tourism to the top in Bhutan, which, of course, is welcome. There are also the government flagship programs in several pre-selected districts to increase the tourist inflow. Like any other government plans, I am sure there are constructions and hardware involved. My view is that, tourism in Bhutan will eventually succeed or fail depending on how ordinary Bhutanese people treat the visitors. For, nothing can substitute the experiences with the locals, and their genuine smiles and spontaneity, which are still very vibrant in Bhutan – just as in Bali and in Taiwan.

So, what can we do? The government will do what it has to do. As a society, we have a greater responsibility. As academics, the socio-cultural and educational fundaments from where such altruistic behaviours emerge should be researched and mainstreamed. This is a long shot, I know. As parents and educators, the traditional socialisation process of respect, altruism and selfless service towards others – and the urge to help someone in need or a complete stranger, should be sustained and strengthened among our younger generation. Lastly, as journalists and social media influencers, the feel-good narratives and stories of human spirit should be brought out in the public domain and celebrated.

Never mind that just across the border our fellow travellers and truckers are not accorded the same kind of treatment. Let the law deal with that. As for us, we are who we are and we should remain that way – and persist.

Only then I see tourism not only going to the “top” but staying there as well.

(The original article appeared in Kuensel, the national newspaper of Bhutan on Nov 2, 2019. Click here for the online version)

I was drawn by the spelling – as usual. I think I have OCD with spellings 🙂
I didn’t see the Garuda Air staff when I took this selfie. I wanted the plane
Our country is beautiful. No doubt. But we, the people, need to continue to be beautiful inside, if we want people to visit us.
After Day 2, I was like a member of the family. The day I left Bali, Mrs. Danu woke up at 3 in the morning and made coffee for me. “I know you need this,” she said.
Bali – This guy offered to help my daughter reach the van. She had twisted her ankle


On my maiden visit last year, the locals thought I was the tour guide and my prof (American) was a tourist. They spoke to me in local languages – ignoring him who instead speaks and writes fluent Mandarin, We had so much fun


Taiwan’s dizzy economic growth has not made them lose the sense of humanity


Research methodologies

In this post, I share the presentation slides on the research methods in intercultural and cross-cultural communication. This is semester-long course but compressed to a two-day workshop. Therefore, it just provides the reader/participant an introduction to research.

Second, I am a communication scholar specializing in intercultural communication, sociolinguistics and discourse studies. Hence, the methods I proposed here are for my field that may applicable at the most to sociology, pragmatics and applied linguistics. Others disciplines will find other methods and methodologies more appropriate. 

Nonetheless, I hope these will be some use to you. You may leave comments if you feel there are ways to improve these slides.


Water supply: Danger to public health

A tweet on the problem of water during rainy season in Phuntsholing made me think of something strange that is with our municipal water supply system. Water shortage during rainy reason? But why? and how? It is not dry season. And someone explained that it is because of leakage into the piping system that blocks the flow.

Now if true, this could also be a major public health concern because that means at several points, where the supply pipes crosses drains and sewage lines, the waste water and bacteria can break into the pipes. Is this the reason why we have high cases of H Pylori and E Coli in the Bhutanese population? H. Pylori is bacteria that causes peptic ulcers and then stomach cancer in the long run.

Could our water supply be contributing the rise of stomach cancer in the country? I hope the Ministry of Health will take some random water samples and test them in the public health laboratory and publish the results.

Meanwhile I know everyone doesn’t drink tap water directly but during the rainy season, or at all time, it may even be safe to brush your teeth or wash salads with boiled water.

Stay safe everyone.

Kuensel news report